Traditional Seasonal Health Food Practices In Southwest India: Nutritional And Medicinal Perspectives

Aati amavasye

In Dakshina Kannada, during Ashadha masa ('Aati masa' in Tulu language) on the new moon day, an annual ritual (Aati amavasye) of drinking the concoction made out of bark of Alstonia scholaris (called 'Indian devil tree') is in practice. This is a mass ritual observed by all irrespective of their religion or community or caste. The evergreen perennial tree species A. scholaris is native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. The bark of this tree is washed in water on the previous day of bark extraction, a holy thread is tied around the tree and prayers are offered worshiping the tree to store all the medicinal properties in it. The spirit 'Aati Kalenja' is believed to protect people from diseases during the month of Aati by storing all the medicinal properties in the devil tree on that specific day. On the dark moon day, after bath prior to sunrise devotees approach the devil tree and cut its bark with a clean stone (use of knife or any metal implements are known to cause chemical reaction of concoction to be prepared) (Fig. 1a). The inner fleshy part of the bark will be pealed out and grind with pepper, cumin and garlic to prepare a milky bitter concoction. Heating white pebbles on charcoal and addition to the concoction believed to eliminate the toxic constituents. Later, the concoction will be filtered and consumed prior to have food or beverage. Depending on the age the dosage will be reduced to half or one fourth for children. Consumption of the concoction is followed by a sweet dish made out of raw rice, jaggery and coconut milk.

It is believed that in the rainy season people will succumb for several illnesses. Thus, consumption of the milky bitter concoction of devil tree is assumed to stimulate the immune system and prevent diseases. The devil tree is believed to have 1,001 medicinal properties. The bark of devil tree is known to consists of several alkaloids (e.g. ditamine, echitanine, echitamidine, picrinine and tubotaiwine) used as an alternative to quinine. The concoction of the bark is also used to treat anemia, menstrual disorders, malaria, fever, colic and diarrhea, while the decoction of leaves used in treatment of Beriberi ⁶. The latex of this tree is also used to cure ulcers, soars and arthritis ⁹.

Aati Padinema

On the 18^th day of Aati masa, a celebration called 'Aati Padinema' will be observed in Dakshina Kannada, while 'Kakkada Padinetta' in the Kodagu. That day is the beginning of agricultural activities. It is also celebrated as the festival of ayurvedic herbs in different regions. According to the tradition, Aati Padinema will be marked by the preparation and consumption of a sweet dish made out of leaves of Justicia wynaadensis ('aati soppu' or 'maddu soppu'). The leaves of this shrub are believed to imbibe 18 medicinal principles useful to improve human health. A pharmaceutical US patent has been granted for the use ofJ. wynaadensis (http://www.pharmcast.com/Patents/Yr2002/April2002/040202/6365411_Cholesterol040202.htm), which lowers cellular cholesterol, cholesteryl ester concentration and also possess inhibitory property on the uptake of low density lipids (LDL) by the macrophage cell line.

Aati masa

Another common delicacy preferred to consume during this season is the tender bamboo shoots (Bambusa arundinacea) ('kanile') ⁶ (Fig. 1e). These shoots will not be consumed on the day of collection due to toxic hydrocyanic acid. After cutting the shoots in to small pieces, soaked in water for two days to eliminate the toxins and the pieces are used to prepare various dishes consisting of a strong pleasant characteristic aroma. The shoot of the plant is reported to possess anti-inflammatory, antiulcer, antidiabetic, antioxidant, anthelmintic, astringent, emmengogue activity¹⁰.

Some of the commonly used plants for consumption in traditional way include leaves of Cassia tora ('tajank': leaves), Colocasia esculenta ('kesuvu': rhizome, stem, leaves), Moringa oleifera (drumstick: pods, leaves, flowers), Amorphophallus paeoniifolius (katkene: petiole) (Fig. 1b, c), Cayratia mollissima (Kanakallate: raw fruits) (Fig. 1f) (Table 1). The dish Patrode is a delicacy and it will be prepared from the leaves of C. esculenta. Different fermented rice dishes are prepared using the leaves of Curcuma longa (turmeric, 'arishina'), Musa acuminata

(banana, 'baale'), Tectona grandis (teak, 'saguvani'), Artocarpus heterophyllus (jackfruit, 'halasu') (Fig. 1d) and Erythrina indica (Indian coral tree or 'hongare'). Leaves of screw pine (Pandanus unipapilatus) ('kedige' or 'mundige') (Fig. 1g) are widely used to prepare a fermented food similar to the rice dish 'idli' ('mude') during rainy season (Table 1). The leaves are known to possess medicinal properties and also incorporate its aroma to the dish. As screw pine leaves are rough with spiny edges, spines will be removed, cut into desired size, cleaned in water, rolled and weaved like ribbon after blanching in fire (Fig. 1h). The entire plant is diuretic, leaves are used in treating skin diseases and roots have anti-diabetic properties.

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Fig. 1

Alstonia scholaris (devil tree) showing patch of bark extraction (a); Amorphopholus paeoniifolius plant (b), A. paeoniifolius petiole (c); baked rice dish 'kottige' in cones of jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophylus) leaves (d); harvested tender bamboo (Bambusa arundanacea) shoots (e); fruits of Cayratia mollissima (f); Pandanus unipapilatus (screw pine) plant (g) and cylindrical containers made out up of screw pine leaves for preparation of baked rice dish 'mude' (h).

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Traditional folk dances

The 'Aati Kalenja' is one of the traditional dances of Tulu Nadu practiced by the Nalike community. A person dresses up as a mark of spirit and is believed to rid away the village from the anti-elements during the Aati masa. It is believed that the practice of this ritual by the people helps to keep away the dangers of the evil spirits. The man who involved in ritualistic dance decorated with tender coconut leaves, anklets, colorful cloths, long cap made by areca (Areca catechu) spathe and the face will be full of colorful designs (Figure 2). By holding an umbrella made up of leaves and decorated with flowers, the ritual performer dancing, singing and visiting the houses. In return, the ritual performer is rewarded with paddy, rice, coconut, turmeric and charcoal by the devotees. 'Sona Jogi' (Figure 3) is another art form where one of the member dances and others sing songs. They use traditional instruments for music. They gather rice, coconut and other grocery during their visit to the houses.